A comperative analysis of several designers who currently dominate the Indian fashion scene shows they blend traditional Indian craftsmanship with modern silhouettes and global aesthetics, though each has a distinct signature style and philosophy.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Sabyasachi has become a global force, renowned for his opulent bridal and couture wear. His design philosophy is centered on “glorified neglect,” where he reinterprets heritage textiles and traditional crafts like zardozi and gota patti with a vintage, slightly distressed aesthetic. He’s known for rich, layered looks, deep jewel tones, and a focus on handcrafted details. His brand has expanded into jewelry, accessories, and home decor, establishing a complete luxury lifestyle ecosystem. Sabyasachi’s work is celebrated for its authenticity and for elevating Indian craftsmanship to a global luxury platform, making his creations modern heirlooms.
Manish Malhotra
Manish Malhotra is a household name, synonymous with Bollywood glamour and high-octane celebration wear. His style is characterized by a maximalist approach, with a heavy use of sparkling sequins, intricate embroidery, and vibrant colors. He’s the go-to designer for celebrity red carpet looks and grand wedding ensembles, and has successfully expanded his brand to a global audience. While he incorporates traditional Indian techniques, his work is distinctly contemporary and focuses on creating dramatic, show-stopping pieces that are widely accessible through collaborations and a broad retail presence.
Anamika Khanna
Anamika Khanna is a pioneer in “India modern” fusion wear. Her designs are a unique blend of traditional Indian textiles and craft with unconventional, global drapes and silhouettes. She is famous for reinterpreting the dhoti and sari in modern ways, creating iconic dhoti-pants and tulip drapes. Her aesthetic is a beautiful contrast of traditional Indian fabrics and intricate embroidery with a bohemian, deconstructed, and edgy feel. Khanna’s work is celebrated for its artistic innovation and for pushing the boundaries of what Indian fashion can be, appealing to a clientele that values individuality and a high-fashion sensibility.
Tarun Tahiliani
Often called a master draper, Tarun Tahiliani is celebrated for his elegant, modern designs that are deeply rooted in India’s rich heritage of draped forms. His work is a seamless blend of fine craftsmanship and elegant simplicity, creating pieces that are both sophisticated and comfortable. He uses intricate Indian embroidery and textiles to create structured silhouettes that are globally appealing. Tahiliani’s design philosophy is about “India Modern”—using traditional techniques to craft garments that are light, wearable, and luxurious, emphasizing the way the fabric feels on the skin.
Gaurav Gupta
Gaurav Gupta stands out for his avant-garde, sculptural, and futuristic approach to couture. He’s known for his innovative use of fabric, creating fluid, three-dimensional, and often fantastical silhouettes that resemble waves, cosmic forms, or mythical creatures. He’s a key figure in taking Indian design to the global stage, having showcased at Paris Haute Couture Week. While his work is futuristic, he incorporates traditional Indian elements like zardozi and intricate embroidery in a measured way. Gupta’s designs represent a departure from traditional bridal wear, attracting a clientele that desires a statement piece that is both a garment and a work of art.
